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Entries for March 2008


March 1, 2008


SAT
1
MAR

Lesson 5: Summer Salad, Fish Stew and Sponge Cake

By Marcelo Calbucci


    For the first time we did lunch on Sunday instead of dinner on Saturday and I think it work out better, because we don't feel so tired at the end of the meal. On the other hand there is just so much that can be done in the morning, which is critical for foods that must be prepared just hours before serving.

 

    The recipes were:

  • Summer Harvest Salad (Salade Messidor)
  • Fish and White-Bean Stew (Cassoulet de Poissons)
  • Sponge Cake with Crème Anglaise (Biscuit de Savoie, Crème Anglaise)

 

 

The Cooking

 

summer-salad    This time I had to compromise on three fronts.

 

    The salad was quite simple. It was the first time I cooked artichokes by trimming the leaves first. Usually I cook as a whole and eat the base of the leaves as well. The first compromise of this lesson was the mayonnaise. The recipe called for a home-made mayonnaise with Dijon mustard. There was two pregnant and I couldn't serve that because the base for mayonnaise is raw egg yolks.

 

    The cool part was blanching the tomatoes to remove the skin. I  didn't know it was that easy, but dropping them in boiling water for 10 seconds or so and then quickly moving them into cold water (so they don't cook). It works amazingly well.

 

     The main dish was very promising, with onions, tomatoes, carrots, white beans and fish. The second compromise of the night was that I couldn't find monkfish. I tried 3 different markets, but they were all out. Instead, I used Halibut Cheeks. I left the white beans in the water for about 24 hours, so they were relatively fast to took (less than 1.5 hours). The third compromise of the night was the tomato and onion mixture to go into the stew. Since this is not tomato season, they were pretty tasteless, so I decided to add a can of diced tomatoes.

 

fish-stew    Finally, there was the dreaded desert, which so far is 0-4 against me. The Sponge Cake was so thick that was near impossible to spread it on the pan. I wonder if anyone at Cordon Bleu ever followed the recipe instructions they wrote. The Crème Anglaise was very easy to make. The hard part was to wait for it to thicken (I think I had the fire too low).

 


The results

 

    Contrary to what I was expecting, the salad was not heavy because of the mayonnaise. The artichoke bottoms were excellent and a bit more firm than you usually find on cans, which I really liked.

 

    The Cassoulet was also very good. According to Jordana it’s the best dish I’ve done to date! The topping of the Cassoulet didn’t look as crispy – with the bread crumbs – as it should have been but it wasn’t a problem. The white-beans with tomato sauce and the fish were all near perfect seasoning (not under-salted like many of my previous dishes). This Cassoulet felt like a perfect dish for a Sunday family lunch.

 

sponge-cake    Finally, the desert had some issues (again!). The Sponge Cake was neither a cake nor a biscuit, it was something in between. However, one of the persons on the table, which lived in France for a year said it was quite common that kind of hard dry cake with Crème Anglaise in France. So, I probably did it right, but the taste was not great.

 

 

Technical Data:

 

  • Guests: Alfredo, Audrey, Roger, Dana 
  • Total cost: $100 (Artichokes are quite expensive this time of the year)
  • Item hard to find: Monk Fish (substituted with Halibut Cheeks). 
  • Utensils bought: Gratin dish ($20), Flour Sifter ($7), Small Whisker ($3), Cake Pan ($17).
  • Appliances bought: none 
  • Best Dish: Fish and White-Bean Stew 
  • Worst Dish: Sponge Cake with Crème Anglaise 
  • Accompanying wines: Patianna, Sauvignon Blank, Mendocino, 2005 (USA).
     

Score:

 

RecipeIngredientsPreparationCookingTaste (1-5)Do it again?
Summer Harvest SaladVery EasyMedium (45min)Easy (30min)4Likely
Fish and White-bean StewMediumMedium (45min)Medium (3h)4.5Very Likely
Sponge Cake w/ Crème AnglaiseVery EasyEasy (20 min)Medium (30 min)3.5Maybe

Table Legend: Ingredients - How hard to find them; Preparation - Cutting, assembling, washing, etc.;
Cooking - Roasting, frying, searing, etc.; Taste - 1=inedible, 2=edible, 3=good, 4=great, 5=OMG;
Do it again? - How likely would I do it again (based on cost, time and result).

7:04 PM | Permalink | 2 comments


March 12, 2008


WED
12
MAR

Lesson 6: Onion Tart, Mussels and Vanilla Bavarian Cream

By Marcelo Calbucci

 

    This week I also did lunch instead of dinner. I need to adapt to my friends commitments. Since I have so many friends with kids, I try to invite one couple of kids and one without. I had some concerns about the quantity so I increase a bit of the portions.

 

    This week's recipes were:

  • Onion Tart (Tarte à l'Oignon)
  • Mussels with Wine and Cream Sauce (Mouclade)
  • Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry Coulis (Bavarois à la Vanille, Coulis de Framboise)

 

The Cooking

 

onion-tart    I love when a recipe allows you to prepare a big or tough part ahead of time, and the dough for the Onion Tart was just like that. According to the book, I could prepare it 2-3 days in advance while keeping it on the refrigerator. That's what I did, but then... When Saturday came, I checked out the though and it was tough like a rock. Did I ruin the dish? Well, I gave it an hour or so to reach room temperature and it was still pretty tough. I decided to roll out the dough anyway, and, surprise... It worked perfectly. I found this dough recipe quite easy to do.

 

    For the mussels dish it seemed like an easy task. I've done mussels many times and I've learned how to know when mussels are ready. That part was very easy. The hard part was creating a reduction with the liquid left-over and crème fraiche. The problem is that if you heat too much, crème fraiche can suffer so chemical separation  of the fat (like cheese), and that's exactly what happened.

 

mussels    The desert was quite simple. Crème anglaise, like last week, whipping cream, gelatin powder and the raspberry coulies. I almost messed up the crème anglaise by cooking at a higher temperature than what I used last week, but at the end it worked out pretty well. The gelatin powder also had some issues becoming too firm before I mixed with the crème anglaise. My solution was to poor a little of the crème anglaise over the gelatin, mix until they were relative well homogeny and then turn it back into the big bowl w/ the rest of the crème anglaise.

 

 

The Results

 

    I think I never had home-prepared Tart dough before, because this was just perfect. The onion tart was very good. It didn't have onion taste, but a sweet mix of tart dough, cheese and nearly melted onion. Really wonderful and I'm glad I did two tarts instead of just one.

 

    The mussels were good, but not great. I was expecting something much better, but it was just like nearly every mussel recipe I had before. I'm starting to think there aren't any original way of cooking mussels. That said, I love mussels and I ate quite a bit.

 

bavarian-cream    And, finally, after five not so great deserts, this one was excellent! It was not too sweet, or too moist or too dry, just great. And given how simple it was to prepare I think I'll have to do a few more times.

 

    Different from other "lessons", I think this one, although without any dish that stand out, was the most uniform experience with three very good dishes.

 

Technical Data

 

  • Guests: Renato, Ana Elisa, Paulo, Angela, Belinha
  • Total cost: $57
  • Item hard to find: None
  • Utensils bought: 9" tart pan ($12)
  • Appliances bought: none 
  • Best Dish: Onion Tart 
  • Worst Dish: None
  • Accompanying wines: Chateau roumieu-Lacoste, Haut-Barsac, Lauternes, France, 1999; Principessa Gavia, Gavi, Itaily, 2006; Hangtime  Pinot Noir, 2005, USA; Facelli, Syrah, 2003, USA. 

 

Score

 

RecipeIngredientsPreparationCookingTaste (1-5)Do it again?
Onion TartVery EasyEasy (30min)Easy (60min)4Likely
Mussels with Wine and Cream SauceEasyEasy (30min)Easy (20min)4Very Likely
Vanilla Bavarian Cream with Raspberry CoulisVery EasyEasy (20 min)Easy (30 min)4Very Likely
Table Legend: Ingredients - How hard to find them; Preparation - Cutting, assembling, washing, etc.; Cooking - Roasting, frying, searing, etc.; Taste - 1=inedible, 2=edible, 3=good, 4=great, 5=OMG; Do it again? - How likely would I do it again (based on cost, time and result).

 

8:35 PM | Permalink | 2 comments


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